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Chain Waxing for Winners




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Shouldn’t all drivetrains look this clean? 


Bicycle chains, or bicycle drivetrains more broadly, have a reputation for being filthy. All that gunk (that’s the technical term) on the chain increases friction on the drivetrain, impairs shifting performance, and accelerates the rate at which the drivetrain wears out. Anyone who has visited their local bike shop recently knows that modern cassettes, chains, and chainrings are not cheap. A dirty drivetrain means replacing parts more frequently and having a drivetrain that doesn’t work as well as it should. Life is too short for poor shifting. 


Why would anyone wax their chain?


Not to fear, chain waxing is here! The basic principle is coating the chain in paraffin wax, where the wax gets into the inner workings of the chain. This is about 3-6 watts more efficient compared to some oil-based chain lubes. A nice practical benefit is that chain wax is completely clean to the touch (no more greasy hands) and does not accumulate the dirt and grime from the road. This keeps the system very clean, even after thousands of miles. 


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There’s not a spec of dirt on there, even after several hundred miles since the last wax treatment


The wax treatment greatly improves the lifespan of drivetrain components. Friction Facts published a report which estimated the cost of replacing various components based on a chosen lubricant. For example, for Shimano Dura Ace 11 speed with the Molten Speed wax immersion, 10,000 km of riding would require about $250, which accounts for minimal wear on the drivetrain components and includes the cost of the wax itself. Compare that scenario to using some of the least efficient lubes, which could wear through 4-5 chains, 2 cassettes, and at least one chainring, totalling about $2,200 or more. Buying a $30 bag of Molten Speed Wax and a crock pot from Goodwill suddenly sounds a lot more appealing.  


However, there are a couple dirty details about chainwaxing to consider: first, the initial setup requires extensive cleaning of the entire drivetrain. This means degreasing the entire drivetrain, which is a modest cost at a shop or an afternoon in the garage. Second, if the chain gets wet, it requires some special attention, where the chain needs to be wiped dry immediately upon returning home and ideally rewaxed. While these drawbacks can be annoying, the significant benefits of waxing far outweigh the downsides. 



So what does this entail?

Now that everyone is so excited to start waxing, here’s a brief rundown on how to get started. Waxing a chain requires some preparation and attention. It’s a bit like doing the dishes. 

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  1. Buy a crock pot from Goodwill, dump in some unmelted Silca Hot Melt Wax (there are numerous brands, take your pick). The low setting works just fine. Wait a couple hours.

  2. In the meantime, take the chain off the bike and clean it with a strong degreaser (Silca Chain Stipper works great). It’s easiest to submerge the chain in a Mason jar for about ten minutes with periodic shaking (like you’re making an awesome margarita!) to help get all the old grease and gunk cleaned out

    1. If the chain was super dirty to begin with, it might be easier to just buy a new chain and remove the factory lube from that.


Ceramic Speed UFO drivetrain cleaner in a Mason jar works great for degreasing chains. It’s a pretty tidy solution for such a messy business. This chain is fresh out of the package, ready for the pre wax cleaning. 




  1. Rinse the degreaser off the chain thoroughly with water until the water runs clear. Hang it up to dry for at least 15 minutes, preferably wiping it clean and drying with an old rag.

    1. If the chain was particularly dirty, or has remaining gunk then do another soak and give the Mason jar a few more shakes.

  2. It’s recommended to take this opportunity to clean the rest of the drivetrain (cassette and chainrings) so residual gunk doesn’t contaminate your nicely waxed chain

  3. Now the chain is clean and dry. Loop the chain onto on old wire coat hanger, or a short section of sturdy wire. This way you can take the chain out in a few minutes.

  4. Time to submerge the chain in the melted wax. The wax is ready once it’s all melted and turned to liquid. Leave the chain in the wax for about 5-10 minutes. Swish it back and forth to help get the wax into the chain. 



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  1. Hang the chain up to dry until the chain is cool to touch. It’s going to drip, so try to hang it up above the crock pot so the liquid wax drips back into the pot. 


  1. Carefully reinstall the chain, taking special care when routing through the rear derailleur. Pro tip: Make sure the chain goes UNDER the little tab on the lower cage. The chain should just contact the two pulley wheels, nothing else! 


Once the chain is reinstalled, there will be an initial break in period where the chain has to break up the wax and become flexible again. This takes about 10 minutes and the drivetrain should soon be completely silent. 


After anywhere from 200 to 300 miles, it’s time to rewax the chain. The specific mileage will vary depending on the brand, but it’s time to dunk when the chain has shed all the wax on it. There could also be slight audible noises from the chain, or the mileage recommendation has been reached (~300 miles). There is no need to reclean the chain again. Simply take the chain off the bike, dunk it in the melted wax, take it out and let dry, then reinstall. Easy.  


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This chain has been waxed and is now cool to touch. It’s about to be installed and test ridden. 


Waxing the chain takes some time and effort, but so does a conventional oil based system. The advantages of a clean system is that it is more efficient and greatly improves drivetrain longevity all make for a very compelling case to start waxing the chain. The waxing system may not be for everyone, but it’s worth giving it a try. 












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